Although recent appointments at Dior and Chanel have generated significant buzz during the ongoing Paris fashion week, it was the debut from the iconic brand that utterly dominated the media spotlight. The presentation featured a unexpected guest: Meghan Markle, making her first European appearance in three years.
That Saturday night in the city of lights, the spectacle of other major houses – plus the notable attendee – could not compete with the overwhelming presence of the Balenciaga event.
Meghan brought immense glamour and excitement to the fashion event.
Prior to the event, the prevailing sentiment surrounding Piccioli's inaugural collection had been relatively serene. This esteemed brand is a time-honored label, and the designer is widely recognized as a master of his craft. Furthermore, he is admired for his status as the nicest man in fashion. The general expectation was that extravagant catwalk stunts had left the house of Balenciaga with the departure of provocateur designer Demna to Gucci. However, sometimes the most gentle individuals can deliver surprises, and the appearance of royalty greatly increased the media frenzy.
Piccioli sees himself as an design visionary, crafting shapes that do not contact the body.
Notably, the core concept of the collection's guiding philosophy, as he detailed it behind the scenes, was the empowerment of women. His primary reference was Cristóbal Balenciaga’s 1957 sack dress, a outline that stands away from the body, avoiding emphasis on nor constricting a female form. The designer explained that this look was a powerful manifestation of a shifting zeitgeist that was beginning to move from the 1950s conservatism towards the progressive 1960s. This was focused on female empowerment. It released women from the weight of clothes that rest heavily on the physique and define them by their shape. That garment allowed women to be free in space.”
Some of the house's famous designs were featured in the show, such as this structured outerwear.
Clothes that hold their form are central to the Balenciaga's philosophy. The designer likened this design methodology to being an master builder: building forms that never make contact with the body, while constantly considering the human beings who will inhabit and move within them. “Cristóbal Balenciaga was fascinated by the physique and with textiles, and with a additional component – the space in between.”
First onto the catwalk was a fresh take of the loose-fitting garment, extended to an ankle-skimming hem, paired with opera gloves – but also with oversized sunglasses that served as a clear homage to the apocalypse-chic of the previous designer's tenure.
Piccioli, who at his current age wears beaded necklaces and radiates an air of hippie-ish serenity, rejects the idea of seeing fashion as an ego battle. He believes that it is more admirable for creatives to respect each other’s talents. The creative director mentioned that he was aiming for a successful fusion between the couture roots of the house, and its more modern casual influences. Classic designs from the house were included in the collection: a ‘cocoon’ coat, this time in a bold green hue, and a flared dress in a powerful violet tone.
The phenomenon of French-girl chic has become a lucrative industry. This creative talent is an American man, but he speaks this fashion language fluently. He previously worked with the renowned designer during her time leading the brand, and then devoted a half-decade elevating the American brand into a beacon of wearable style. Now back at Céline, he is infusing the inclusive spirit of Polo to the local aesthetic. The collection featured classic outerwear, woven bags, and silk scarves tied around bags – the signature details of Parisian elegance – executed in cheerful tones, with an positive transatlantic vibe. This is not an exclusive label, or a brand that wants to exclude people,” Rider stated post-presentation. “I hope that everyone feels desirable in the brand. By choosing these pieces, you may not have the strangest thing, but you have the finest outerwear, and you have the attitude to wear it.”
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